3D Printed Top Load NES Mod – Part Three

Part One can be found here… 3D Printed Top Load NES Mod – Part One

and part two… 3D Printed Top Load NES Mod – Part Two

I don’t think I’ve ever had something fit as closely as this has on the first try.

Slicker than an oiled up whore at fishin’ derby

I’m fairly confident in the structural integrity of the 3D printed lid. It’s not MILSPEC (so it’s probably not going to stand up to a bomb blast) but after some bashing, I can say this should stand up to years of play. And if it doesn’t you can print another with more infill or thicker walls.

 

This is the prototype used for quicker printing, the finished design is much nicer

Printed using Inland PLA Peak Green 1.75 mm color (also called “Neon Green” online, but this is closer to mint than neon). With the following settings:

NES Top Load Mod 
Nozzle Diam..40 mm
Nozzle Temp.210° c
Bed Temp.65° c
Layer Height.2
Print Speed55 mm/s
Wall Thickness.8
Top / Bottom Thickness.6
Infill25 %
SupportsYes, set "Everywhere" with angle set to 85°
Support Density15 %
Using my Tevo Tarantula type 3D printer with a glass pane attached to the bed. Sugar water is used for adhesion. As with any 3D printed parts, your mileage may vary using my settings. You know your machine best, adjust accordingly.
nes lid color mod up

Quick color “mockup” thrown together for funsies

With the way this is going, I don’t have much excuse to delay the long process of soldering the connector to the edge of the printed circuit board. For prototyping purposes I think this will be fine; I’m not the first to do it for sure. I hope to be able to come up with a solution other than directly soldering to the board, but it may be an inevitability for the 72-pin connector. The great thing though is that this mod is designed to be reversible. It was very important to me to be able to undo any changes made to the system if absolutely necessary. I don’t want to be the guy that encouraged people to destroy a precious NES.

I will be printing version one-point-oh soon and dolling it up a bit to display potential. I’ll have plenty of time to solder up the 72-pin and do some actual game testing while I wait for the final prints to finish. I hope to have a final update with good results soon. I think I’ll take the going-in-dry approach and not do any maintenance on the 72-pin before testing this out. I want to see if immediate results can be gained just by installing this modification.

On the final post all necessary STLs will be made available on my shop. A lot of love (and time) has been put into this project and many others that I hope to distribute soon. I know the 3D printing community is used to hitting up Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory and downloading piles of STLs up to their eyeballs. I’m certainly guilty myself and very thankful to all the artists out there that contribute. But a man’s gotta eat. I will be charging a small amount for the download of STL files for my projects. I want this to be a reasonable low cost option to add value to an already great system. I plan to continue support for projects like this incorporating all feedback from anyone kind enough to pass it along. All bug fixes and updates will be made available at no cost to people who have already purchased a prior version. I hope to get this out into the hands of as many nerds as possible. I can’t wait to see what comes of it!

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